Other Bra Making Supplies

Short Version 


Elastic 
  • Lingerie elastic for the bottom of the frame and from the strap under the arm and along the back at the top of the frame. You may want to use a narrower elastic for the top.
  • Double edged elastic for the straps.
Underwire
  • I don’t use underwire.
  • You can use underwire from old bras, but check that it is the correct shape for you.
  • You need a casing for your underwire as well. This can be bought, or can be made from a suitable fabric.
Hooks 
  • Simple bras go over your head, so don’t have hooks at the back.
  • The adjustment to add hooks is easy, and hooks are easy to apply, but they are difficult to find at fabric shops.
  • There are several types of hooks available.
Adjustable straps 
  • A simple bra doesn’t have adjustable straps. I’ve never needed them.
  • However, some people need adjustable straps, so I’ve included information about how to make them.
  • To make adjustable straps, you need 2 O rings and 2 slides or 4 slides, there are instructions for either.
Long Version 

Elastic 

The picture shows both sides of some different lingerie elastics



These are:
  1. Double edged elastic used for straps. It usually has fancy edges of some sort - this one has picot edges. This one also has a soft fluffy back, to make it more comfortable to wear.
  2. A lingerie elastic that could be used for the edges of the frame. This one hasn’t got a special soft fluffy back, so it would be attached to the frame with only one stitching. Generally, this type isn’t as firm as 4 or 5, and I prefer the other type. However, this is often the only type of lingerie elastic on offer in most shops.
  3. Fold over elastic for finishing the top of the cup, neckline and even the frame.
  4. Narrow lingerie elastic suitable for finishing the frame. This has a soft fluffy side at the back, and is attached to the frame in two stitchings.
  5. Wide lingerie elastic suitable for finishing the frame (it could also be used at the bottom of the frame with the narrower version 4 being used at the top). It has a soft fluffy side at the back, and is attached in 2 stitchings.
Underwire 

I have never used it in my bras, but there is a section on how to use it. I don’t like underwire because it rubs against my ribcage, it comes out and pokes you in the armpit or destroys your washing machine. I find it difficult to source, and a bit confusing to buy. Of course, you could always use an old set of underwires from an old bra.




The picture shows some old underwires that have been through various accidents (including jamming a washing machine) together with a new pair. The old ones are still good enough to use.

Your cup size varies with your size. A 32D cup = 34C cup = 36B cup = 38A (it doesn’t matter whether you have these numbers, or a different set, the principle holds everywhere). The two wires below are both DD. The larger one is for a larger band size. Also, people are different shapes, so you may not really fit the underwire you can find.



You also need some underwire tape to hold the underwire.



Or you can make some by using woven tape. I’d get the underwire tape, as it’s soft and absorbent.

Hooks

I am ambivalent about hooks. They are difficult for me to find to purchase and they get destroyed or destroy other things in the wash. On the other hand, if you use hooks, you can use less stretchy fabric in the frame and you don’t have to pull your bra over your head. If you accidentally cut the frame with the stretch in the wrong direction, you can reshape the back and add hooks.

Hooks can come as a continuous tape with the number of rows of hooks you want. You cut off the width you want, and zigzag around the raw edges after you have attached the tape. Some tapes have a fluffy back. The ones on the left are woven cotton which would need a wider zigzag to finish where you cut them.



Or you can get them as an individual set, which just need to be attached. These have no raw edges and are easier to sew on, but you need to get one wide enough for your bra frame. The continuous bra tape can be cut to size.



Adjustable Straps 

You can get hardware for adjustable straps. Again, they can be difficult to get hold of.

The picture shows a ring and slides. I don’t like plastic slides. They sometimes disintegrate with exposure to sun or in the washing machine.



Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Maya Bra by Afi or How to sew a fully lined bra

Image
This post shows you how to make a complex bra that is fully lined. The details of how to add adjustable straps, similar to those in the Afi pattern are in the  Barrett Bralette .  And how to sew on hooks are i n  Creating a Look . The Maya Bra by Afi is a free pattern located here https://afiatelier.com/allpatterns/maya-bra/ . However, the instructions are for a foam bra, and I didn’t want to include foam. Also,  the instructions didn’t end up with the lined finish that I was after. The site asks you to work out your size, and then download the pattern for your particular size. Once you have done that, you need to tape the pattern pieces together. You’ll notice I didn’t tape the foam pieces, and I just cut out the ones I needed. Three pieces for the cup, which had seams all around, and two pieces for the frame. I chose the two hook frame rather than the three hook frame, and laid them out to show you how they go together. Note that I have highlighted each point where the pieces are sup
Read more

Madalynne Barrett Bralette - Changing patterns, and laying out.

Image
The Madalynne Barrett Bralette pattern  https://madalynne.com/introducing-barrett-free-pdf-bralette-pattern/#  is a really nice, simple pattern with good instructions. It’s a pity that the size range is small. This pattern has no frame, and I simplified it even more by removing the triangle in the front. I decided to change the pattern in two ways. Firstly, the triangle at the bottom of the front makes it a little tricky to sew, so I decided to eliminate it. Secondly, I decided to sew it for someone who’s a D cup, in the maximum size, when the Bralette is only for a C cup. Changing the Pattern I traced the pattern onto a piece of paper with plenty of room around the pieces since we are going to expand them. You could get some vilene from the sewing shop, as it’s more see through than the paper I used.  Then I decided how much bigger in the bust it needed to be. If you measure your high bust (a firm measurement above the bust, under the arm and across the back) and compare it with your
Read more

Creating a Look

Image
I’ve been sewing my own bras for at least 20 years now, so I hadn’t looked at what the current trends were until I started to create this blog.  I thought my pattern and my ideas for bras might be somewhat dated, and I thought it might be interesting to people if a copied a current look. This would also allow me to explain some more advanced techniques that I haven’t used elsewhere. I found this picture. It has a two piece horizontal cup similar to the one I use. The neckline is a sweetheart line, so the top edge of the cup would need to be slightly altered, but overall, it’s a similar pattern. It looks like it’s got a mottled black powernet frame, and cream powernet is used in the cups and as a lining behind the black in the bottom cup. An edging lace (or, mor probably a lace motif) has been used in the upper cup, while a different lace fabric has been used in the lower cup (possibly a stretch lace). A narrow edging lace has been used on the neckline edge of the cup, and lingerie elas
Read more