Simple stitching

I was given offcuts of devoure and velour many years ago. These are both stretch fabrics that could be made into a bra. The devoure needed to be finished at the edges, because it would unravel, so I decided to line the velour with tricot, and to use tricot on all the edges instead of elastic. Tricot isn’t bulky like the other fabrics, and dries easily. As velour has a nap, it looks different if you look at it from top to bottom or from bottom to top, so you need to cut all pieces (back and side cups in this pattern) facing the same direction. Tricot Edging of Neckline   Tricot stretches in one direction but not the other. I cut strips of tricot 1” wide, and attached it to the devoure centre cups with a small zig zag (1,1). I stretched the tricot as I sewed, since I was using it instead of elastic. I ironed the tricot away from the devoure, and sewed the other side down, encasing the devoure. I needed to pin along the tricot to ensure it didn’t slip out of place. I then sewed the ce...

Sometimes you want to attach lace to make the upper edge of the bra cup. First, lay the pieces that you want to use the lace on, flat, right side up, next to one another. Before you cut the lace you need to work out what it’s going to look like, and whether you want the cups to be symmetrical or otherwise. Lay the lace on top, where it needs to be - you could use both ends. Once you’re happy with the layout, cut the lace, leaving some extra to use to adjust it. Pin it into position along the sewing line. Use a small zigzag (1,1) to sew along the firm edge of the lace (not the netting, which will tear when you wear it), then cut the lace to match the edge of the pattern piece. Cut away the fabric from behind the lace, making sure that you don’t cut the lace itself. Sew your pieces together making sure they align where you want them. You will note in this picture that I sewed along the lace where I was going to trim away the tricot, as well as sewing the lace to the tricot near where the...

The Madalynne Barrett Bralette pattern  https://madalynne.com/introducing-barrett-free-pdf-bralette-pattern/#  is a really nice, simple pattern with good instructions. It’s a pity that the size range is small. This pattern has no frame, and I simplified it even more by removing the triangle in the front. I decided to change the pattern in two ways. Firstly, the triangle at the bottom of the front makes it a little tricky to sew, so I decided to eliminate it. Secondly, I decided to sew it for someone who’s a D cup, in the maximum size, when the Bralette is only for a C cup. Changing the Pattern I traced the pattern onto a piece of paper with plenty of room around the pieces since we are going to expand them. You could get some vilene from the sewing shop, as it’s more see through than the paper I used.  Then I decided how much bigger in the bust it needed to be. If you measure your high bust (a firm measurement above the bust, under the arm and across the back) and compare...

This post shows you how to make a complex bra that is fully lined. The details of how to add adjustable straps, similar to those in the Afi pattern are in the  Barrett Bralette .  And how to sew on hooks are i n  Creating a Look . The Maya Bra by Afi is a free pattern located here https://afiatelier.com/allpatterns/maya-bra/ . However, the instructions are for a foam bra, and I didn’t want to include foam. Also,  the instructions didn’t end up with the lined finish that I was after. The site asks you to work out your size, and then download the pattern for your particular size. Once you have done that, you need to tape the pattern pieces together. You’ll notice I didn’t tape the foam pieces, and I just cut out the ones I needed. Three pieces for the cup, which had seams all around, and two pieces for the frame. I chose the two hook frame rather than the three hook frame, and laid them out to show you how they go together. Note that I have highlighted each p...